Getting Started: Constructing the Bodice Foundation

There are many layers underlying a wedding dress and as I have learned, not what you might expect.  The foundation reinforces the structure and shape of the dress bodice, keeps the weight of the skirt from dragging the dress down and makes me look smooth and shapely!  I have enjoyed making this part of the dress even more than the rest because the drab cotton canvas and plastic bones get so cleverly hidden, no one will ever know it is there. I found a very stiff and heavy cotton canvas to make my dress foundation.  It is comparable to the ticking used in corsetmaking.  I sewed up all the seams on the machine and clipped notches along each seam of the bust.   I finished shaping the bust with steam from the iron and a balled-up tea towel.  I then started measuring the strips of boning.  There are eight "bones" altogether: two on the bust, one on each side seam, two more at each back seam and one on either side of the back closure.

Once all the boning channels have been stitched in, I take out the plastic "bones" and trim them to fit within the 5/8" seam allowances and round the sharp edges so they won't dig in.  I installed the hook and eye tape before placing the bones at the back closure.

After placing the hook and eye tape, I realized my machine zipper foot would still not clear the metal hooks and eyes.  I had to stitch the outer edge and tack the underside by hand - argh! The results look very neat though.

With my hooks and eyes lined up perfectly, I stitched the remaining boning channels on each side of the back closure.  I then stitched all along the top and bottom edges to seal off the boning channels.

I finished the lower edge with cotton bias tape and turned up a hem of 5/8" so that the bottom edge of the foundation will run exactly concurrent with the seam between the dress bodice and the skirt.